Three fashion-savvy Sydney-based Kiwis share their career moves
across the Tasman and why they love their chosen city.
Tulia Wilson
Tulia Wilson
Four years ago Tulia Wilson left her long-standing role as womenswear designer at Zambesi for a new life in Sydney. "I did my last show with Zambesi at Australian Fashion Week in 2007 and basically cried myself to sleep that night going, 'oh God, I can't believe that's the end of an era'. Then I literally moved over there within a couple of weeks," Wilson explains during a visit to New Zealand. The move was largely motivated by her now-husband Neha Belton's role in opening the Australian branch of Wall Fabrics, but, "from the minute I got there it felt like it was well and truly the right decision".
Now the founder and designer of her own label, Selftitled, Wilson's first foray into fashion in Sydney saw her acting as creative director of the iconic Sydney label Ksubi, where she worked for almost two years until the label moved production to China and the design process became less hands on. "You didn't get to be involved in the draping of fabric, creatiion of patterns, or experimenting with wash on denim. That's the true part of fashion I love; it has to be hands on."
Following her departure from Ksubi, Wilson was offered about half a dozen jobs at various brands, but she decided it was time to focus on something more personal.
"At the time I couldn't see myself investing all my energy in another label. It wasn't so much that it needed to be about me, but I felt like I needed to find myself in the whole process. I figured that if I wasn't leaping at the chance to work for somebody else, it was time to figure out what I was about."
So around 18 months ago she launched Selftitled, a line inspired largely by what Wilson felt she and her friends wanted to wear. She says she got past the point of wanting a big brand and world domination, instead aiming to keep it small, individual and unique, a more relaxed attitude no doubt inspired in part by the birth of her daughter, Hero. "I thought about what I really liked, which was still exploring vintage stores, finding one-off pieces, having something very small that felt much more unique and individual," explains Wilson, who works from a small studio space in Pott's Point, near her Elizabeth Bay home.
"It wasn't about creating seasonal collections, it was just creating a series of pieces as I felt inspired to do so, and working a lot with the fabrics I love - particularly leather."
Having worked so closely with the industry back home for so long, at such an iconic New Zealand label, Wilson is perhaps more qualified than most to offer her take on the differences between the industries. Like her garments, she has an intelligent and thoughtful take on the topic. "I think the younger brands in Sydney have the opportunity to develop in a slightly more sophisticated way, faster than they do in New Zealand, by virtue of the fact that they have the department stores as a huge option - that can generate a lot of wholesale turnover for them quite quickly, if that's what they choose to do." The very strong range of multi-brand boutiques in Sydney also helps, something that is somewhat lacking in Auckland.
"I haven't been in New Zealand for four years, so I'm not entirely sure what is going on, but there is a lot of government support for the fashion industry in Australia - there are grants that you can get depending on your turnover. In order to keep the infrastructure on shore, the Government has a lot of incentives to help businesses keep their production local, which I think is important for the industry as a whole."
Wilson and Belton still have some roots in Auckland - they are currently renovating their Grey Lynn home - but Wilson says it's the location and climate that attract her to Sydney. "It's a fantastic place to live - you're so close to both the beaches and the really vibrant, diverse cosmopolitan city."
* Self-Titled is stocked at Black Box Boutique, Grey Lynn, Auckland.
Tulia's Sydney
For breakfast, I still think Fratelli Paradiso (12-16 Challis Ave, Potts Point). Then lunch at Sean's Panaroma (270 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach), and dinner at Porteno (358 Cleveland St, Surry Hills).
For shopping, I think Land's End, hands down - it's just got a really interesting mix of product that's quite different; it has a really original take on what's going on (205 Glenmore Rd, Paddington). The Corner Shop in the city is really good too (Shops 80-81, Level 1, The Strand Arcade, 412-414 George St).
There's a great organic market by Carriageworks in Eveleigh, which is on every Saturday morning (Eveleigh Markets, Blacksmith's Workshop, 243 Wilson St, Darlington). And even things that have been there forever - like the fact that Ariel Books (Ariel Books, 42 Oxford Street, Paddington) is open until midnight every night - it's so nice!
Kelvin Harries
Department store David Jones is an Australian institution, with a New Zealander playing a key role behind the scenes. Kelvin Harries has worked as a stylist for the iconic store for roughly 12 years, pulling together its seasonal campaigns and high profile fashion shows - in addition to his respected work with Australian designers, consulting for Lakme Fashion Week in India, and styling for fashion magazines including Oyster and Harper's Bazaar. But it's his long-standing relationship with David Jones that will be best recognised by most Australians: their department stores are big business.
Raised in Gisborne, Harries has lived in Sydney for 20 years, a city that he loves for "the climate, the lifestyle, the food culture, the beaches, the sunshine". He has worked closely with various designers who have helped shape the Australian fashion landscape: Collette Dinnigan, Akira Isogawa, Michelle Jank, and recently, Kirrily Johnston and young designer Gary Begini. But it wasn't until moving to Sydney that Harries began to be involved in fashion, having previously worked in a bank in Auckland for 10 years.
He jokes that he scammed his way into the industry, when he went for a role at Oyster. "I went in and I had a good story and told them I had just travelled back from Europe and freelanced in LA and freelanced in Zurich, and just talked a bit. They asked to see my portfolio and I said 'unfortunately my last port of call was Amsterdam, and I had my bag of luggage stolen at the train station, and I had my portfolio inside, so I had to come back and start it again'. That was my short cut into the industry. But at the end of the day, if you don't come up with the goods you can't bluff a job like this for very long. I guess I just had that instinct for the work." He worked at the magazine for two years, before moving on to Harper's Bazaar where he was fashion editor for five.
Now a freelance stylist working with corporate clients and fashion designers, Harries believes his role is an important balance of the creative with the commercial.
"It's a job of creativity but it's also a job of sound business sense," he explains.
"The skill of being a really good stylist is to not implant your own aesthetic on a job; your work should really be invisible. Even when you work with a designer, your influence should not be able to be detected in that collection. You have to be able to understand their brand and develop who they are, not who you are."
Kelvin's Sydney
Busshari Restaurant 119 Macleay St, Potts Point. For exquisite fine dining Japanese in a discreet, stylish environment. The kingfish carpaccio, tuna tataki salad and dynamite rolls are standouts although I could happily make my way from one end of the menu to the other without pausing for breath. The food is outstanding.
Velluto Bar
50 Macleay St, Potts Point. Tucked away towards the back end of the park of the El Alamein Fountain in the heart of Kings Cross, Velluto is a small neighbourhood lounge bar, discreetly lit, beautifully appointed and stylishly run - a rare find in Sydney party town. The music level is low, conversational and passionately edited from resident host Brien's extensive library of 6000 plus CDs. The white chocolate martinis are a personal favourite.
50 Macleay St, Potts Point. Tucked away towards the back end of the park of the El Alamein Fountain in the heart of Kings Cross, Velluto is a small neighbourhood lounge bar, discreetly lit, beautifully appointed and stylishly run - a rare find in Sydney party town. The music level is low, conversational and passionately edited from resident host Brien's extensive library of 6000 plus CDs. The white chocolate martinis are a personal favourite.
Llankelly Place
Kings Cross. This once divey laneway of porn shops and pawn shops has suddenly become home to a string of great indoor/outdoor bars and restaurants - LL Wine and Dine, Mad Pizza, Bamboo (dumplings), KL Kitchen (Malaysian) etc. It's a perfect place to sit outside and watch the cross section of Kings Cross culture parade by.
Kings Cross. This once divey laneway of porn shops and pawn shops has suddenly become home to a string of great indoor/outdoor bars and restaurants - LL Wine and Dine, Mad Pizza, Bamboo (dumplings), KL Kitchen (Malaysian) etc. It's a perfect place to sit outside and watch the cross section of Kings Cross culture parade by.
Zoo Emporium
180b Campbell St, Surry Hills. Vintage and recycled clothing over two large store levels, this place is an institution.
180b Campbell St, Surry Hills. Vintage and recycled clothing over two large store levels, this place is an institution.
Assin
T2 Verona St, Paddington (next to Verona Cinema). If you want an indulgent shopping experience of top tier brands - Rick Owens, Dior, Lanvin, Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann - this is the store for you, both men and women.
T2 Verona St, Paddington (next to Verona Cinema). If you want an indulgent shopping experience of top tier brands - Rick Owens, Dior, Lanvin, Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann - this is the store for you, both men and women.
Brenda Harvey
After working for two of Sydney's best fashion labels, Lover and Kirrily Johnston, Brenda Harvey decided it was time to launch her own. And so, almost two years ago, Benah was born, a high-end accessories label that takes its name from Harvey's childhood nickname and incorporates beautifully handmade, understated printed scarves, leatherware and bags.
Raised in Taumarunui, Harvey arrived in Sydney around eight years ago, a stopover via a one-way ticket to London. She left her role as Paul Serville's assistant and left to see the world.
"I came here, in my early 20s, spent all my money, partied - I was the cliche, I moved to Bondi, and had the time of my life," she explains. Some months later, after another stopover in Southeast Asia, she returned to Sydney - "And I still haven't made it to London!" she jokes.
Once back in the city and working various odd-jobs, Harvey decided it was time to do something about her dream of working in fashion, enrolling in a clothing production course at TAFE. An internship, then full-time job at Lover followed (she was one of the much-loved label's first employees), then Harvey worked at Kirrily Johnston as production manager.
Like most in Sydney, Harvey credits the relaxed lifestyle as the thing she loves most about the city - her fiance Ben Briand is another, a born and bred Sydney-sider and film-maker who produces the seasonal imagery for Benah (the couple have an adorable 9-month-old daughter, Milla). "The lifestyle is easy: everything's accessible. You can buy amazing food, you can access amazing fashion. People seem to be, especially this year, really optimistic about where everything is headed and where the world's going," Harvey explains. "It's positive here, there are opportunities, and you feel like you are part of the world."
We talk about the differences between Sydney and home - New Zealanders' penchant for black being a key one (when she first arrived years ago, everything in her suitcase was black). There's also the obvious: the industry here is much smaller.
But Harvey says that doesn't mean it can't be global, talking about Karen Walker as an example. "My mum asked me the other day, 'what's so different about her?' And I said that she didn't design for a New Zealander, she thought beyond, globally, which is so important. These days there are no borders - the world is so much smaller."
* Benah is stocked at Simon James Concept Store, The Department Store, Takapuna, Auckland.
Brenda's Sydney
Blackburn Gardens & Seven Shillings Beach Double Bay.
This place is such such a peaceful hideaway just a short distance from the city. It has an amazing restored heritage garden with manicured lawn and sundial. It almost feels like you are spending the day at some grand old mansion on the harbour with the most spectacular views from what feels like a private beach.
This place is such such a peaceful hideaway just a short distance from the city. It has an amazing restored heritage garden with manicured lawn and sundial. It almost feels like you are spending the day at some grand old mansion on the harbour with the most spectacular views from what feels like a private beach.
DVD Gallery
385 New South Head Rd, Double Bay. My partner Ben and I spend a lot of time here. They have a whole floor dedicated to hard-to-find, cult, arthouse films as well as your usual Hollywood fluff. Plus it sells dairy-free Serendipity kaffir coconut gelato, which I cannot get enough of.
385 New South Head Rd, Double Bay. My partner Ben and I spend a lot of time here. They have a whole floor dedicated to hard-to-find, cult, arthouse films as well as your usual Hollywood fluff. Plus it sells dairy-free Serendipity kaffir coconut gelato, which I cannot get enough of.
The Corner House
281 Bondi Rd, Bondi. I like that this bar feels local even though it's only a stone's throw away from the tourist mecca of Bondi Beach. It's a lot of little rooms so has quite an intimate feel and the best wine selection.
281 Bondi Rd, Bondi. I like that this bar feels local even though it's only a stone's throw away from the tourist mecca of Bondi Beach. It's a lot of little rooms so has quite an intimate feel and the best wine selection.
Mitchell Road
Auction House 76 Mitchell Rd, Alexandria. I am such a hoarder and collector. I definitely relate to the saying, "A person's trash is another's treasure". I can literally, and have been known to. spend hours here. So many amazing bits and bobs.
Auction House 76 Mitchell Rd, Alexandria. I am such a hoarder and collector. I definitely relate to the saying, "A person's trash is another's treasure". I can literally, and have been known to. spend hours here. So many amazing bits and bobs.
Who else?
A small selection of other fashionable Kiwis making it in the city
* Mala Brajkovic - Head designer for Something Else
* Shay Thomas - Prada PR & Advertising Manager
* Marina Didovich - Stylist, Fashion Quarterly fashion editor
* Rene Vaile - Photographer
* Rachael Tuffery - Fashion show producer
* Greg Sands - Graphic designer, works with designer Kym Ellery
* Derek Henderson - Photographer
* Carrie Cooper - Designer for footwear label Beau Coops
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